Retro Gaming, Projects, Repairs and Blog
Intel Pentium 233Mhz MMX. Back
My problem is that it doesnt shows me on the rasperry all games from the rom folder. All in the folder are bin files. I have naomi, atomiswave, triforce and chihiro roms. It doesnt show fzero for triforce system i think and maximum tune 1 and 2. why? I changed the names of the bin files to not be that long. Didnt help. I formated the sd care to ex fat. Didnt recognize. What can i do?
did you check the roms are names correctly and match the list on the Pi?
I still have mine, unused for decades now, the graphics card had a tiny little fan which conked out though, grat performer though
Great write up
I recently dug up my old Xbox
After removing that clock capacitor I did a soft mod and have a new hard drive and sata adapter in order.
Have you heard of insignia?
It’s a replacement Xbox live service which is free and run by the Xbox community.
Easy to install. I’ve played a few old games online again and it’s great. I’d recommend you add it to your OG Xbox and see you online!
…Should fit perfectly… That Mini DIN socket is a piece of… Whether it fits nor is it possible to connect it to the PCB. I now have a modded PCE but can‘t use it as the socket slips into the housing when trying to connect the lead.
Just wanted to know if we can run CPS1, CPS2 or MVS rom games on the naomi with netdimm or is it only naomi 1/2, atomiswave, chihiro and triforce that are working ?
Thank you in advance
Hello! You mention that there was a pre-production game with the DC. Do you remember what game that was? Thanks!
Hi. I think I should edit that. It was a whte lable game, so review/pre-release copy not preproduction. It was Crazy Taxi 2.
Incredible collection and incredible work you’ve done to the machines! I especially like the Amiga 1200.
As a young kid we couldn’t afford a SNES or Mega-Drive, so my uncle gave us an Amiga 500 as a hand-me-down with some gammy old joysticks and a ton of floppy’s that weren’t always labeled or working.
I was jealous of anyone with a 1200 because they could play Street Fighter II Super Turbo, which I saw in the local shop. Now I have a Sega New Astro City with two LS-40s. and every street fighter I could want haha! Justice!
Love the site/blog, can’t wait to see what projects you get up to in future.
Hi, I have just picked up a KV-25F1U, but can’t get the service mode to work. The online manual says to switch the TV on to standy, and then on the remote press OSD (i+) > 5 > Volume+ > TV, but as soon as I press “5” it just switches on and to channel 5. Any advice on how to access the service menu please? Thanks.
Thank you so much again for doing this for me! Just to clarify this was an N64 I got off Ebay which was listed as faulty for the AV out but upon trying it out it seemed to work without a problem with my own official cables etc so I’m not sure what was meant to be wrong with it when the original seller had it.
Also I think there’s a general problem with the 1080i resolution, my HDTV didn’t work either and I tested using the Genki ShadowCast which is a small USB-C capture dongle via my PC. Other than that though that was no big deal, the other resolutions are perfect enough for it.
But overall definitely worth it, I was previously using a RetroTink Mini which doesn’t justify the resolution, it just makes it so muggy. Now it makes everything so much easier to view. Thank you again!
Ruined by the Quickshot. A Competition Pro would have been the better choice.
So I have a sega cd that powers on sometimes an sometimes it won’t but lights flicker when it does power on it won’t stay on what do u think it would b I’m waiting for my caps to come in to do a recap
There is a quiet degauss sound on cold start, It’s a good point though I wonder if the degauss coil is working properly? When it’s facing south there is a colour purity issue in the top left corner and the screen tilts to the right. I’m going to open it up to clean out the dust, not sure if i’ll be able to spot anything but worth a go.
It should be a loud “Thud” or “Dunk” noise. Sounds like the degauss isnt working. Its controlled by a thermister that allows AC voltage through the coil for just a second then breaks the connection. This is done by heat, and thats why degauss dosnt happen if you turn off and on again quicly. The thirmister needs to cool down. If the part is faulty it dosnt open and voltage dosnt get to the coil. Not sure yo will see anything unless its burnt out.
Thanks, thats’ really useful. I have a couple of PVMs and the JVC DT-V series in particular has what I might term ‘aggressive degaussing’ It’s loud enough to scare the cat 🙂 Love the site by the way! I refurbed an Astro City this year so i’ve enjoyed your NUC post. 🙂
Hello. I’m looking for a Saturn with all the best mods to bring it up to date and somewhat future proof. Interested in the MODE ODE also.
Please could you help me ?
Please send me an email.
I’ve just picked up the same model and I’ve been very impressed by the image quality. For anyone wanting to understand the service menu search for the official service manual, it gives a clear explanation of each setting.
My screen has a tilt to the right unfortunately which needs fixing. There is a tilt setting in the service mode but it doesn’t rotate the screen 🙁
Hi. No tilt/rotate setting unfortunatly. You mighht have to open the TV and chech the yoke isnt loose.
A bit more tinkering and I’ve found that rotating the entire TV to face north east fixes the issue entirely. I’ve read about magnetic forces affecting CRTs before but not sure why it’s so noticeable on this one 🙂
Does it degauss when switching on from cold? It should make a “Dunk!”sound when powering on. If so then it demagnetizes the tube automaticly.
Sorry I clicked reply in the wrong place. 🙁
I fixed another with no CDDA CD audio by repairing a via from Q606 on the bottom side. It isn’t on the partial audio schematic from Furrtek so I’m not sure how it’s related to CDDA.
Symptom: Seemingly no CD audio, though it was *barely* perceptible through the right channel only using headphones (volume cranked). If you just use Genesis 1/Mega Drive 1 cables to test like I was at first then you have no right channel audio anyway.
Is it possible to use a 2MB rom game save donor cart and do some rewiring to make it work with 4MB eeprom with save ?
Is there anything special you have to do to the SD card that is specific to the Pi? I have 2 (purchased) Naomi-Pi loaders. One works perfectly. The other one also work perfectly but only with the same SD Card. I made a new card (copied the working one exactly) but it will not boot on the Pi. The working SD card, it will boot to the loading screen (on either Pi) and then it’s ready for game selection. But the copied card, it won’t boot (on either Pi). It just remains blank on the display. So it seems to be an issue with the SD card. So my question is – is there something that I need to do to get the copied SD to boot? Is there a hidden file?
Thanks for any help!
Lastly, is there a way for an automatic loading of the last game used? I own a real arcade with real Naomi games – and it would be helpful to have the last game loaded to automatically start or have that as a feature within the menu. My Wild Riders game cart died and I replaced the dead cart with a net boot setup. It’s just a pain to load the game every morning. Or if I get a new battery, would that retain the game in memory?
show us pls where the cables are connected from RGB chip to the underside of AV socket.
Hi guys. I have been after one of these Superguns for a while, just cant find one to save myself!.
Any ideas as to where to buy?. Thanks for the help….
great blog keep up the good work
Russ: I know somebody living here in Switzerland who is very experienced in soldering and modding consoles. In case you are interested just drop me an e-mail.
Hey, I followed this write-up and the GitHub for the premade images but I’m having some difficulties and thought I would reach out. I have the image burned and it’s loading fine but I can’t seem to get any games to show on the Pi. When I cycle through the menu, three options show, Favorites, Ping Dimm, and Shutdown. I’ve put a roms folder in the root of the SD card and in the piforcetools folder, still no go. I made sure the names matched the games list names and still nothing and this is where I’m currently stuck. Any suggestions?
Hi Erik. Sound like you’ve done everything right to me. If the folder path and the file names are correct, I cannot see why its not picking them up on boot. Check the “gamelist.py” for the file names. Lots of them use underscore in the file names and make sure the roms are unpacked and not zipped.
I’ve matched the gameslist.py file in every configuration I could think of but still cannot get anything but Favorites, Ping Dimm, and Shutdown to show. I’ve attached a photo of the games path and the gameslist.py file. I’ve attempted to put the .bin files in the root of the roms folder, in their own folder with the game title as the name of the folder in both the SD root and piforce root, nothing has worked so far. Is there something I’m overlooking?
Seems to me like to problem is the program isn’t seeing the roms folder at all. Did you expand the partition and move as per the instructions? perhaps connecting a monitor and keyboard and check the file system. Is the FAT32 partition mounted and accessible? Send me an email is that’s easier than the comments
Any chance you still have the art file for the cartridge label design? It’s the best looking Everdrive 64 cart I’ve seen. Clean & simple.
Hi! I don’t know if my comment got removed as spam or something.
As an update, thanks to your description, I managed to turn off auto 16:9 and turn on RGB by default, so thanks a lot!
My problem is that I still don’t know how to adjust the horizontal offset since my image is also offcentered.
I think I have a quite similar model of Trinitron, KV-X2103E (it’s the Spanish model, but I think the KV-X2102 should be the same in UK).
I have the exact same annoyances, but I don’t know how to fix it.
It’s off-centred to the left, it defaults to 16:9 and I need to manually switch to RGB.
I managed to access the Service Menu, but I don’t know how to operate it. The only thing I seem to be able to do is to input a number next to TT – ( ) , but I don’t really know what does it do.
I’d really appreciate your help.
Very cool setup! I have a similar amount of systems connected up, though without any mods other than a SNES Everdrive and a soft-modded Wii.
Seeing all you’ve done is very motivating. Keep up the great work.
Hi I have two game gears that need fixing have not been used for a few years but we’re working fine before. Do you still do repairs and if you do what is the charge please?
This is a great guide and I’ve set up quite a few hard drives using your methods. The one thing I will say, you say “I used HDL Dump GUI to backup the ISOs from my IDE drive, and install them all to the new SATA drive with USB adaptors. Then for later games I want to add, I can just send them over Ethernet to OPL.”
I have never been able to get games to transfer over ethernet from the PC using OPL reliably. Installs would hang at 0%, or take hours and hours. To make things worse OPL decided to implement a new standard in the latest versions (NBD) which doesn’t seem to work on Windows at all.
Instead, I recommend everyone uses this software instead – https://sites.google.com/view/ysai187/home/projects/hdlgameinstaller
There’s a PS2 client and a PC server part and it works extremely well, works 100% under Windows 11 and transfers very quickly.
Hi. I completely agree. I can no longer get network transfers to work reliably. I reccomend rwmoving the hard drive from the ps2 and connecting to a SATA>USB Dock.
Too much hassle lol, seriously, try the tool I linked, it makes network transfer of games really easy 🙂
Hi there, I’m intending to try this mod myself, but this is more ambitious than most mods I’ve done in the past (I’ve done mod chip installations and such but never done vero board stuff like this). I Was wondering if I could get some more information on the parts required? Mainly the capacitors, since there’s a lot to choose from and I’m not sure for instance how important the listed volts are and if I’m supposed to be getting polarised or non polarised parts. Also, can a 9-Pin Mini-DIN socket (like the Mega Drive 2 uses) be used for the new AV port, then allowing me to simply use a MD2 SCART cable? Thank you for any and all help.
Hi, Great job on your website – lots of informative and enjoyable content. I’m a new owner of the pc engine cd-rom2 interface unit. Can you recommend a suitable replacement UK power supply for it which can also power the original white rf pc engine unit too please? I understand that the console needs centre negative 9v 650ma and the interface unit requires centre negative 9v 1450ma – am I correct? I’m awaiting delivery of the interface unit from Japan – do they both share the same barrel jack connector size?
Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
recommended to use sync on luma RGB SCART
Did you ever figure this out? Same issue here. Loud beep instead of playing the sound effect.
If you’re still looking for a fix I had the exact symptoms after recapping my PCE Duo. In Rondo of Blood the ‘X’ sound at the title was a loud beep, same when Richter whips the horses and defeating skeletons in the first stage. Also the graphics were corrupted during the first cutscene after Richter is supposed to whip the first skeleton.
I found a broken trace caused by component L503 being broken near the D91317GD on the bottom of the board. I can’t find any documentation but I saw similar component L504 on the top side of the board had continuity. So I’ve cleared and bridged the pads for L503 and now the ADPCM samples and cutscene graphics are working.
If L503 is OK, maybe this will help point you in the right direction, this took me a good while to spot.
hey can you email me that clear guide? would be insanly helpful
How much (if any) is the improvement on load speed on the CDZ?
I have looked around online, and haven’t really seen any mention of it.
I believe Raz’s notes on the CD unibios claims there’s some tiny improvements to the top loader; so I was curious. Thanks!
I have replaced most of the capacitors, but still getting little CD volume. Then I tried to lift IC503 and IC521 for some cleaning. Well all sounds gone after reassembling. After checking the board I found a lot of bad vias I think. Should I now get some new 4558s or just try to do something with bad vias first?
Thank you so much
Thank you for this very helpful article! One small thing, isn’t 220uf capacitor on scart pin 16 wrong way? + should be oriented towards source of the signal i think. 🙂
Of course, i was thinking of pin 20 aka Sync. 😀
I think you are right. I’ll try and adjust the diagram at some point. I bet I got it the right way round in the cable 🙂
Do only Japanese ROMs work for netboot? I recently got a netdimm and pi setup. It came with the sd card already set up. Works great, but all the games are Japanese versions. Would love to swap them with US versions if possible.
Hi. The NetDimm doesn’t care what region the rom is from. It will load it into RAM and pass to the Naomi for running. The Naomi bios will determine if the game will run or not. Whoever provided that SD card must have expected the games to run on a system with a Japanese BIOS. 8bitplus.
What’s the thing that you’ve placed under the 40 socket called? I actually need to get one so I can install my Unibios. Please help! And of course, thank you for the tutorial.
How did you managed to remove the C136 and C163 capacitors as they are coverd by a chip on the other side. ???
I am having trouble figuring that out
Hello. Yes I always replace those 2 caps. The chip can be bent back giving access to the solder points. Never had a problem with C136 & 163.
Hello there everybody my Lazer has gone on my Sega multimega and I’m trying to get a new one how hard is it to come by one a couple of retro game refarbish site’s don’t have the part’s and say they are hard to come by could you please help me with any recommendations for site’s that might be able to get a new Lazer thanks for Daniel battersby
Hi mate. When I was woking on these consoles a couple of years ago, getting the lasers wasn’t that hard. The problem that you need to go to aliexpress and the like. Getting good ones is the hard part.
Also once a new laser is installed it needs tuning to work correctly. This can take a very long time to get it Woking in tollreance. Neil.
Just grabbed an Amiga 1200 and am trying to understand the modern Amiga world but it feels a bit overwhelming, especially after last owning an Amiga 500 as a 9 year old! So much progress.
Yours is a helpful post and the only reason I responded to say so (should probably do that more often) is because you mentioned my favourite game of all time, Simon the Sorcerer, which was actually made in my local town.
No need to respond if you have better things to do as I’m slowly working it all out anyway but I thought I’d ask whether you think I need to get kickstart 3.1 (I have 3.0), just for games on WHDLoad. The plan is an 8gb flash card and 8mb fast ram.
I still have an amiga 1200 in my dad’s loft. He reckons the graphics chip needs replacing. I would love to get this up and running again after over 25 years of being forgotten. Can anyone help?
Do you isolate the FRAM chip from the battery?
How can I get CSYNC along with this mod ? I prefer CSYNC because Sync on Composite/Luma don’t give as a great picture quality as CSYNC.
Over the years I’ve had a 3DO stolen from me back in the late 90’s another dropped and broken and two that the drive went on. I still have my most recent one that a drive went on. I know you don’t mod units anymore but is there anyway to have this unit modded with a usb drive. I’m a strange person who actually really likes the 3DO. If not you who? Please help me preserve this cherished device from my youth.
Thanks for your time.
I have a sega cd console that freezes at the bios screen.I tried recapping but to no avail.
Do you know any other methode to fix this?
With kind regards
the big chip called “SEGA 315-5632” have damaged traces to the upper left corner near the one of leaked capacitors, I already fixed 2 units by patching those traces , they are very delicate, so be very careful!Clean very well than check the traces with multiplier, then proceed with soldering .
In this area some pins are under the big IC so I can list you where they are going I already traced them so:
from the big IC to the CPU
pin 148 pin 64
pin 149 pin 63
pin 150 pin 62
pin 151 pin 61
pin 152 pin 60
And this pin 156 goes to the IC Sanyo LC89515 or to the next IC on the left HM514270AJ8
pin 156 pin 72 (sanyo) or pin 16 (HM)
good luck !
The card can also come with a stock 040/40MHz; I had such one of those (with a 160MHz bppc)
Great piece of hardware and great system. I went from a blizzard 040 to 060 to 060/PPC and later bvision thanks to the upgrade path from phase 5!
I wish I still had these cards 🙂
Hello! Just want to say that this post has been invaluable to getting this mod done myself. Looking forward to reading your previous articles and mroe posts.
Just a quick question, may I know how you were able to remove the upper white plastic piece of the IFU-30? I’d like to retrobrite mine, but I can’t figure out how to take it out!
Hi Paul. Thing is the unit had been opened at some point in the past and I found it very easy to open. There was a few broken plastic clips missing so that might be why.
Ohh, that explains a lot then. I noticed from your picture that there seemed no easy way to lift the entire thing without a clip impeding it.
Thanks for your quick reply!
Wow looks so different on the last picture. Hopefully with all that insulation it’ll be toastie warm in the winter
Hey is there any compatible 4tb with the free mcboot softmod
yes i just made some for customers 😀 check collectingames on etsy
Glad to see your making progress onthe new workshop, I’m jealous i’d love to have a dedicated space to leave stuff setup.
Hi, great article! Since I owe both, Naomi cab and Dreamcast I decided to do this conversion. I started some preparations and just wanted to mention that the process might become more hassle free if one uses Dreamcast to VGA cable (with built-in converter) from Ali, and replaces the original PSU with DreamPSU (also Ali). This way we get clean 12V input that way on the back of your DC. It’s cheap, no soldering/drilling required (even though I have absolutely nothing against it :)) + untouched Dreamcast housing can be converted back to it’s original state anytime in future.
Now I am only looking for a pair of cheap (preferably “broken”) controllers to be able to complete my mod.
hi, thanks for this detailed repair
am looking for an old mod, that i saw on a thread long time ago, the battery mod, it’s probably easyer than the recap but so far i can’t find it anymore 😦
Where can I buy this tower to put my mediator setup in
I have a turbo duo and any time I turn it on I just got a black screen. Do you think capacitor replacement may help?
Thanks a lot!
I bought my son a mega cd II, Seller says was tested and working, but have no power, believe it is the built in fuse. Are you able to do this repair?
Greetings larry you solved it, I have the same problem as you.
Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me. I have a netdimm which looks slightly different and only has an ethernet port and not vga or GDRom ports? I believe it was originally in a Triforce. It looks the same as the one pictured in the article in all other ways (apart from another small socket on the top). Can this also be used in a naomi system? Many thanks
Hi, I lost my video cable DB9 to Scart, where can I get this cable, I been searching for very long time in internet and couldn’t find it. Or do they even have DB9 to HDMI?
Many Thanks for your help!
Hi, I’m looking for video cable, I also have the DB9 and wants to connect ot TV but I can’t find it anywhere to buy, I see you got the same DB9. Where can I get RGB video cable like your one?
Many Thanks in advanced!
PC-Engine is also my first console and I just want to get it running again, but I somehow lost the cable while movie home.
Hi. Sorry but I cannot make a cable for you. I have no way of accepting a payment. Also the pinout might be different to the ones I use.
Hi, Sorry I didn’t see the comment and I write one again.
Thanks for replying so fast!
You got me any advice how to advance? I really want to make it work again.
Yes, it is a surface mount cap, it goes up to IC506, reason I say it belongs on the audio circuit.
Ic 506 is the main audio opamp before going to the AV port. I don’t have a duo board easily accessable just now. What pin is it connected to on the ic?
Thanks for the help, C624 -> R631 -> Pin2 Ic506
Perfect. Pin 2 is left audio in from the main sound processor. The cap and resistor will be for very low value for smoothing the voltage. It’s not for powering the ic as I suspected. Try a 1uf cap to be safe.
If pin2 is left audio, using that information I searched for right audio. Pin6,correct? same cap in the right channel, C625.
I desoldered it, measures 22nf, is that a good value? Can you tell me the voltage rating?
I was doing a recap and by mistake I trashed C624, it looks it it belongs to the audio circuit,
but i’m not sure, does anyone know the specs for this cap?
It’s not on my diagrams as being part of the audio system. I’d leave it off and finish the rest. Then if the audio is not working, try bridging the cap. Is it a surface mount cap?
Thanks man, really helpful.
Hello, very good job.
It is possible to buy this amiga ? Im very interessted. Sorry for my bad english.
You’ll have to track down the person who I sold it to almost 10 years ago lol
Hey. I realize this is an old post, but still very useful today.
I’m currently working on a Turboduo that I’ve recapped, replaced all 4558 Op-Amps, thoroughly cleaned the board like 3 times(had popping and crackling sounds), reflowed much of the solder points and IC pins, and found 3 bad vias/traces.
The last issue I’m noticing, is with playing Fighting Street as a test cd, the cd audio(music) starts low and fades in to a normal loud volume. While playing “round 1” and the music is normal and loud, then when Round 2 starts, the music starts up again at a lower volume. same with anytime the audio track changes or restarts (the short continue screen).
Any idea what could cause this? OR have you seen this specific issue? The audio sounds good otherwise and once it has time to fade in to full volume it sounds good…
It’s easier if you use 29f400 and bend it’s pins to look like a SOJ.
1st timer question- If I’m using a M27C322 eeprom and want to burn Streets of Rage 3 to it. When split up, it only divides it into 7 – 512kb segments. Do I only burn the 7 or do the math to split into 8 smaller sections.
Thanks for your help!
It is compatible with Action replay please ?
I have a cracked screen needs replaced.
Hey man, how’s it going? We’ve conversed in the past and you helped out a lot but the I am puzzled again by this frustrating NetDIMM.
For the longest time it was booting totally fine then recently it started booting to a black screen. I tested the voltage and found it to be 4.93 so I turned it up to 5.03. Now it boots every time but, of course, something else had to start going wrong. I’ve had the NetDIMM using a wireless bridge to transfer games over and it was a occasionally flaky in the past but now it seems it’s not working much at all. I connected it with an Ethernet cable to the router and that seemed to work fine but even now that is only copying over a few MBs before it quits. Could the new higher voltage on the NetDIMM be interfering/degrading the connection? I ran a scan of all the RAM and DIMM memory and they all passed. Is it possible the zero key chip is getting too much voltage or damaged when the voltage increased?
When I try to ping it from a command prompt I get “destination unreachable.” The LEDs on the NetDIMM are showing green (flashing occasionally) and red like normal. I’ve cleared the network settings a couple times and tried different static IPs (192.168.1.5 and 192.168.1.229).
Thanks for any help you guys can provide!
Send me an email rather than use the comments.
Was wondering I have a PiForce NetDimm With Naomi setup that is a stand up arcade and driving games like 18 Wheeler and Crazy Taxi will not work with a joystick setup. Can I use the Dreamcast Bins For these games so they could possibly be played using joystick setup?
Unfortunately it’s not possible to play DC games on the Naomi. The core structuring is different and would need considerable reprogramming to be achieved
It would be possible to use a control pad on the Naomi Jvs board connected to the analog inputs with adapters.
I have a Piforce Netdimm setup have been looking all over for this answer. Can a Naomi play Dreamcast bins?
Hi,I need some tips about fix MEGA CD 2 if you can… I have two jap Mega CD 2 with the same history and the same behavior. The two MCD2 was upgrated to No region BIOS by someone that I don’t knwo. but after this mod no more boot screen…. even if original BIOS is insert back. on power on The lens carriage move it to home position but no focus movment and disc no spin… power led flash very short not ever. I tried this two unit with an Megadrive Asian e another Mega drive that had mod with the region switch. In all situation ever black screen and no more boot screen. Fuse is ok. I reflow all the pin of the bios socket but nothing. Do you can help me with any tips about this fault? Many thanks in advance.
Hi, I’m looking for the pin layout for original av connector 8 pin. I need the cable color for each pin of the round connector.
Hello! good afternoon! Could you pass me the value of the resistors? I can’t see them. are the following
R64 R63 R56 R57 R50 R49 PC29 R58 R48 R51 R47 R46 R44 R45 R62 R52 R61 R60 R53 R55 R54 R59
some are very little noticed
Thank you for your article.
I have donne the same than you a good recap and changed the 2 amps.
Unfortunately without success.
I have the sound of hu-card only on the right speaker and no sound on CD games. Only the sound effect, no music.
Have you any clew ?
I seen other amps on the motherboard. Is there a chance to repair it ?
Thank you for your response.
Hi. You have to go through the whole apllifier system and check connectivity. Even if the capacitor pads are nice and clean, the interconnectivity between the 2 sides of the board might have gone in some places. Email me and I’ll try to help out.
Am towerizing my R1200 using similar specs to yours. But seems that my voodoo 3 16mb card has also different location of the vga port then yours, hence I will try to cut the vga cable adapter first. Trying to avoid cutting of the infinitiv case and also check if I can relocate the vga port to another location on the Voodoo card.
Will keep this posted 😉
I had an RG-JX2 when I was a junior high school student.
Yes, it cost slightly more than Sega Saturn, but why?
Since they are identical except the color.
Thank you for providing so detail information. I miss my V-Saturn so much.
They cost even more nowadays because of “collectors”, the people who have no idea whats inside the box but want them as a investment on the shelf for display on their stupid youtube videos, and them dump them on ebay down the line for jacked up prices.
Hope you’re well, I would love to have this mod done, how much would it cost ?
Could you give me two quotes, based on if I supplied the hardware and if I didn’t ?
Thanks very much
Hi. You need to send an email, I never discuss quotes in the comments.
Will this work on a NTSC tv for the US? I have a Famicom and want to mod it to use composite outs for mine but I live in the US. Thanks!
Should work fine. The composite image is still NTSC
The link to the website you want us to read first is dead.
Hey. I have just received the board through the post and am planning on trying it myself (I may well chicken out and need your services to fit it….will let you know!) Just one question – I have a PAL SNES RGB cable from Retrogamingcables, and it’s the Csync version. I’m hoping to use this with my N64. Do I need to wire CS# or CS75 to pin 3, or am I not understanding things correctly? I’ll be running the system through an OSSC…
great job; one question; is that picture of the power picture correct; straight through on the three lines?
Hi Stu. Its only 2 lines. Not the best diagram, sorry. There should also be a cut right in the middel of the power line, between the legs of the voltage regulator. Otherwise it woul just be 12v out. Missed that on the diagram. I’ll edit it one day.
Hello I think my Sega game gear is not working as screen is black.i haven’t been use for over 10 years maybe but left in the box. Just wonder how much if u fix it for me?
Good luck with the move!! Glad things are finally progressing.
What PCB cleaner would you recommend?
I’m currently attempting this on my Game Gears. I’m completely new to soldering and have spent an embarrassing amount of time replacing just two capacitors so far. Other than my (really horrible) technique, I’m struggling with cleaning off the corrosion that’s leaked onto the pads. I’ve gone after it with iso and a toothbrush with minimal results.
I did the installation today, it worked perfectly using this tutorial! Too bad they didn’t release rom 3.3 … Thanks!
I never post in forums, but you save me 2 cd readers (pc engine duo r, ps1) with the trick of the layers of electrical tape under the CD balancing pads to raise the CD mechanism. It realy work! and dont need calibrate the laser disk (in my case).
Now, i have problem with some sounds (music work fine), but some sounds (like the door in the “press star” in castlevania ROB) have a bad sound like “interference”.i will try recap later.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Did you ever figure out the fix for the creaking door sound? I have a PCE-D with the same issue. It instead makes a loud beeping sound for the creaking door and some other sounds.
Where is this trick?
Hello!! i want to mod my master system but i don’t know what file i have to use. I downloaded the switchless_sms_RGB_LED.rar and i can see mastersystem_RGB_LED_final.hex and mastersystem_RGB_LED_mit 50,60hz_togle.hex. What is the correct file to burn in pic16f630?
Thank you very much
Very good question, its been a while….
I believe mastersystem_RGB_LED_final.hex, and enemenemuh.hex in that archive are exactly the same file. They have the same checksum output when checked in CertUtil.
mastersystem_RGB_LED_mit 50,60hz_togle.hex is different from the other 2. I think used mastersystem_RGB_LED_final.hex.
Let me know how the mod goes.
Ok, i’ll use final version. Thank you very much!
Hey so my screen will only let me view at a certain angle and there’s 2 lines on the screen. Can you fix it and if so do you charge money?
Hi. I’m currently not accepting work requests.
where can buy this
TF330 accelerator card Amiga CD32??
You might find one on eBay, but best bet is on Amiga forums like Amibay.
The links go to the Saturn Switchless Mod code?
It’s the same code. The mod works the same
Well that certainly sucks, hope you get everything sorted soon
I’m looking at getting my NES console serviced, Ive had it a long time now , but unfortunately I’m getting the grey screen more often than I’m getting the game screen now , do you offer a repair / service facility
Looking forward to your new workshop, because this probably means you have time for new projects 🙂
I have a CDX and it has been constantly resetting. I sent it for repairs and it has had its caps replaced. I’m also using the correct power adapter although it’s not an original and it’s still resetting. I’m beginning to think it’s something to do with the power button possibly a weak spring as the slightest touch to the power button will make it reset….also the open lid and reset buttons stick. If you could contact me via email id appreciate it. Cheers
The same happens with mine, I thought it would be the caps but now I’m not too sure. Could it be the power button?
Fabulous service from Neil with a MK1 Sega Saturn full works mod. Kept in touch at all times with progress reports and photos of work completed. Returned all components that were replaced and offered help and advice on another issue that I had.
Would highly recommend.
Thanks and best of luck with the move.
I bought a sonic3 complete cartridge which provides save feature at the Esty but save doesn’t work after about 2hours.I’m so depressed 😦
I found this thread while googling how to fix it but I think there’s a long way to go.
This is not my Dreamcast in the pictures but Neil fitted a dchdmi, dream pico and rechargeable battery. Very happy with the mods, the picture quality is amazing and the dreamcast runs a lot cooler. Thanks again Neil
I hope that you will be able to take on more work again in the future, trustworthy individuals to work on such projects are difficult to come by!
Best of luck with the house hunting, and thank you again for installing my PSIO.
great article. i just got one of these as i have a street fighter 2 board sitting in storage for the last 20 years…. i hooked it up and the board works which is great. but now i am thinking of getting a cabinet setup. have you any links to how i could setup arcade style joystick/buttons with this supergun ? Thanks
thanks for the review, I purchased one of these on this and it’s a superb device. One question, I note that Smokemonster has said that some superguns have hot RGB connections (I assume he means higher voltage than a TV might expect) and also pass through speaker level audio passing through direct from the arcade board rather than attenuated line level audio such as you’d put into an amp or TV. He says this has caused damage.
Do you know whether the audio is attenuated for the progamer and whether the RGB is at a suitable level? I had no trouble with RGB on my TV but my board has an audio fault it seems (not -5v) so I can’t tell.
Neil did a RGB mod for my NES, he did it very quickly and I am very happy with the results. I will definitely be asking for his services again in the future
I sent in my JP Neo Geo AES to Neil to be updated with a Unibios chip. He also fixed the bright RGB output on my system for a nominal fee on top of the work he had to do with the bios and he kindly squeezed me in to his busy schedule and the system was turned around to me within a week. Extremely happy with the results and thank you kindly again Neil!
Would be very happy to engage your services again 🙂
So what file type is required by the Naomi? Do you only need .bin files? Thanks
Can I also confirm that this image does not work with the 3b+? I’ve seen a couple Reddit subjects on this that the image will work with all Raspberry Pi 3 computers besides the 3b+. Is this true. I can’t get it to run on my 3b+. Looks like it tries to load but then fails. Also my LCD screen just flickers and then turns off when I’m trying to boot. Gonna pick up a 3b and try.
Hi. That’s because its for the RPI 1. Each model has a different bootloader and they are not compatible. RPI1 is fine to load the images. No need for a faster PI
Can’t recommend Neil’s handiwork enough! I sent him a badly abused Turbo Duo and an N64 in need of an RGB mod and both now work better than the day they left the factory. 10/10 – your console’s are in safe hands here!
Playing with my Neo Geo AES had been horrible until now, the image quality was poor and distorted and the sound low. Neil fixed the RGB and the audio and installed UNIBIOS. I’m really happy with the result, the image is crisp and clear and the sound it’s really amazing. Neil is a trustworthy person and he will give you best solutions for you problems for a reasonable price. Thanks 🙂
Hi! I recapped my model 1 sege cd but now when the rf shielding is over the main motherboard, it shorts out and doesn’t turn on when powered on. When the rf shielding is removed from the main motherboard in the sega cd, or when the metal heat-shield from under the sega genesis is removed, it works. I would not want to destroy any chips or anything if there is an electrical issue arching something. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi i have a Sega saturn model 2 NTSC that i want to get cleaned up and modded as well as FRam and power supply what is the price .I am in USA.
Hi. I don’t do quotes in the comment section. Please send me an email.
Hoi, ik wil dit compleet mod kopen, maar waar kan ik deze kopen in een europees land, ik wil geen veel geld betalen aan import costen aub.?
You will have to get a PSIO from http://www.ps-io.com, then have it installed if you cannot do it yourself.
Many thanks for modifying my Mega Drive model 1, quick turnaround and an excellent job on widening the cartridge slot, very neat and tidy job and barely noticeable, would recommend Neil to anyone looking for repairs/upgrades for their console.
Many thanks for modifying my Mega Drive model 1, quick turnaround and an excellent job on widening the cartridge slot, very neat and tidy job and barely noticeable, would recommend Neil to anyone looking for repairs/upgrades for their console
PS. Regarding your post about the RGB to HDMI adapter I use this cable from pound, it’s decent but the only gripe I have is flickering doesn’t work properly, for example the chaos emeralds in Sonic are solid but all in all it’s worth the £35 I paid for it
Buy it here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HD-Link-Sega-Megadrive-HDMI-All-Sega-MegaDrive-Versions-Official-Stockist-UK/273906526197?hash=item3fc619e7f5:g:ISEAAOSwC4FdLb~p
Hello! I have Duo RX and I’m missing audio effects such as the creaking door in rondo of blood or the slash sound when X appears in title screen.
Is this related to caps? I’ve analyzed the board and everything looks great.
Any help is appreciated.
Awesome Amiga 1300.I have one too on another place on Spain that I will visit these days
my sega cd no video and no power.
The lights and drive motor will Flickr sometimes.
Answer to “Twisted” you can install FHDBoot first. And then Free Mcboot later. As for the black screen when the console starts it may be because if your console has a matrix chip the FHDBoot or FreeMcboot conflict. I suggest to keep the start button pressed, turn on the console and wait for it to start. And then release it. I hope it helps
Where can I buy this kit? I’ve only soldered once before when fitting a backlight to a Gameboy ….this seems quite involved but I still want to give it a go.
Hi. You can get it here: https://etim.net.au/n64rgb/
I’m more than happy to provide and install this mod if needed. Just send me an email.
I have a japanese mega-cd mark 1, it has a problem with f1 fuse so I changed it.
Great, it powers up now… but sadly it gets freeze on the bios background image.
CD Drive is not powered up at all, and access led stay off.
I don’t know what to do.
Do you think a recap will do ?
Where can I find those caps ? Wich one to change ?
I really want my very own megacd back to life !
Thank you for any help
Hi there. Frozen bios screen usually means either a faulty drive controller, or a problem with the cpu, ram or bios lines. A recap is always needed on MK1s and may help, but the problem could me more than that. If you need help send me an email and we can talk further. Neil – 8bitplus
How much to fix my game gear mine has sound and visual just some lines down the center of the screen and a faded screen look.
Hi would you be able to fix mine if I sent it to you
Yes. Send me an email.
I have the same problem. Sound is good. First the screen was dark. Now it’s white lines moving around. I can hear I’m changing the menu in the game. Can you advise on how much, complicated, where to get parts..etc
Neil did some work on my PC-Engine Duo, he kept me updated on the time frame as well as provide pictures of the work in progress. The turn around was even quicker than I expected and he was a really nice guy to deal with.
I can honestly say after the Re-cap and RGB mod its never looked and sounded so good.
I would definitely recommend Neil to anyone that wants work or repairs done to their retro consoles and I’m sure I will be sending more work his way.
Hello. Where did you get your NAOMI system? I’ve been looking up stuff about it and am interested, but I have no idea where to get one. (I’m technically looking for a NAOMI 2, but a regular NAOMI would work too.)
I got it from an arcade dealer in Bradford about 10 years ago. Vieotronics I believe.
Im.lost i.am.i retested what games does it play does it store them.after it reads them can I create an arcade style gaming system.with an old arcade machine im.just lost been reading up on it still lost can someone put in idiots terms for me please
Very pleased with the work carried out. Neil replaced the caps and laser in my multi mega as it was have problems reading discs and sound was lost on some games. It’s now back to working like new so I can play all my mega cd games.
thx for the nice Tutorial.
I‘ve some questions about loading Games from HDD:
Some Games are not boot at my Dreamcast with IDE-Mod.
I only get a black Screen, Fallure btw Error Message.
Some Games are in the GDI Format with many Tracks,
so good like all Games in CDI and ISO Format are not work…
I look at ur Games-List and at your List I read the Games must work.
Now, I saw first for the parameters in Settings.
The other one…
I downloading your Programs to create a ISO from CDI.
But every ISO I‘m created, is 0 Kb and unuseal…
Thx and best Regards
I keep seeing references to building this additional circuit when tapping for stereo. Is the signal that is directly tapped from before the amp not sufficient for line-level output (if using TV audio amp or a separate stereo amp)? What would happen if this was omitted? Low audio? I’m seeing people tapping the L/R legs before the amp on MV1C boards and sending directly to RCA jacks.
For the sake of people who would have the same question :
I tried connecting to the 3 resistors as seen on the Jamma-X tutorial, without the RC circuit. Works like a charm, sound is all good on my tv. I’m out of the required components to try the setup in the tutorial (as I’m writing this, we are in full COVID19 lockup, so every seller is closed), so I cannot try the circuit to tell you the difference.
Although I barely hear system sounds (that “bleep” when you insert credits), so maybe it’s meant to amplify this frequency? But I doubt it.
Neil has now modified three of my consoles and I have been delighted with his work. He has kept me informed of progress and provided a very good service. I highly recommend him and am about to send another two consoles to him for modification.
Great coverage but why do you say it needs to be the only cart installed?
Ive run it in a full 6-Slot as the first cart.
Just a small question. Can the cd drive be replaced with a newer one that would spin faster and then reduce loading times?
Love the idea. Sega should have made it 4x speed, but most from consoles all the way to Saturn and playstation were 2x speed or less.
If the drive could go faster the system would need faster controllers to read the data stream, faster ram to store the data. All this adds cost that wasn’t needed. Anyway mega CD loads faster than some consoles like the NEO GEO CD. thanks. Neil
I was told about Neil on the Neo Geo forum. Wow such great service doing my CDZ and a fast turn around. A* and I would really recommend Neil to have work done. Now I won’t need to learn Japanese for a lot of these games lol
Neil fitted a Uni-Bios to my AES, good comms, fast turnaround time, very professional. Highly recommended 10/10
My Super CD-ROM2 was behaving weird only reading the discs 10/15 minutes after being powered on, even though it had a new laser. I’ve reached Neil to do a recap, an RGB mod and adjust the laser to give a new life to my console.
And dear god did Neil gave a new life! The console is working flawlessly and I was speechless when I saw the image quality! I live outside the UK but I’ll gladly contact Neil if one of my consoles ever needs his services! Definitely recommend to anyone! Your console is in very good hands!
Just got me one of these – I did notice too that the cart is far heavier and I worry about the pins — my slots are already a bit finicky. Overall, great write up! I was annoyed that it wiped the memory on the board, but I’m the only one who plays so that doesn’t matter all that much.
Hello, I recently just purchased a hard drive and Gamestar sata adapter. I don’t have a memory card with FMCB and can’t launch my PS2 with FHDB 100% of the time. I was able to boot successfully once in a while but it will often boot normally or freeze on a black screen. Do you know if the Gamestar requires that I have FMCB beforehand for it to notice my hard drive or is that even a thing? I know this isn’t the right place to ask but I can’t find anything anywhere that will solve my issue and was wondering if you had the same issue before.
Note: My PS2 is a 30001R model.
HI. Sorry I cannot answer that. All I know is that FMCB work perfectly off my memory card with my upgraded official HDD adapter.
Thanks for the review I’m getting one i recently bought a 4 slot cabinet been fixing it lil by lil always wanted a Neo geo cabinet so I’m willing to but the work to make the cabinet look good the problem I have is the monitor is showing he’s age where I can get a replacement I want the cabinet in all he’s glory need your help on this .
Cool. Nice, send me an email and we can discuss any help you need on your neo can.
Hi, if you bought that SATA adapter, don’t you just do a straight swap with the original network adapter? I thought it was just a straight plug and play rather than the dismantling and disconnecting you’ve done.
The kit I got was an upgrade kit for the original hdd adaptor. You can get the sata adaptors that plug and play but they often don’t have the LAN port and sometimes not as good quality as the sony units
What HDD did you end up going with. I have everything except the HDD. I`m looking for something 2TB.
Good question. I did get a 1TB drive, but I cannot remember what drive model it was. Might possibly have been a Seagate.
Thank you for this excellent mod, your work is top notch as usual and the mod makes a huge difference to this console.
Would this be something you could repair as I wouldn’t know where to start?
I have a mega cd 1 and it powers up but doesn’t read discs. I believe it’s an issue with the cd lens. Is this fixable or will it need a new lens and is it still possible to even get these replacement parts?
I’m sure it’s fixable. You’ll have to open the console to find out if it has a sony or JVS laser unit. You will also need the capacitors changing on the processor board if it’s not been done yet
I have a Mega CD that when I turn it on it reads the music from the game CD, now if I open the tray and put the same game back in it no longer identifies the music tracks. I couldn’t make it run games, only music disc. What can it be?
I sent Neil my neo geo AES console for a universe bios installation.
The most important is that he fixed my neo geo faulty 2nd player controller button.
It couldn’t register a button command to the 2nd player controller’s input port.
Now my neo geo console is functional and like new again, awsome job, quick service, low repair services, what can I tell?
Totally recommended, reliable service shop, truly specialized electronic repair services.
Great guide, just a couple of questions, What size are the resistors on the RGB out (into the socket)and were do you connect the sync.
I must buy adafruit kit or can I use other LDC with buttons??
Hi, great work, maybe you can help me with my duo: all i get is a White screen, at first after 15 min. Or so, now right from the start, with hu-cards and cd-rom. Any idea, would be very grateful. Thanks, Alex
If its the first (black) Duo then it sounds like a capacitor problem. Is your Duo fitted with a region mod? Send me an email if you want to talk about getting it fixed.
Just received my pc engine duo back after a full recap and rgb mod, works flawlessly and the picture quality is sublime, thanks Again Mate, wonderful work 🤓👍🏻
Thanks, nice Tutorial!
I want to buy one for my Naomi and i am new to superguns. What SCRART did you use?
Also, what PSU did you use?
A link to the one i need to buy would be helpful.
Please and thank you!
Hi. I use a 400w psu and a normal scart to scart cable
SCART to SCART? i looks like its plugged into the front of the TV via RCA.
Sorry i am new to scart.
yeah it looks like that , but the front connection cables are plugged into another console and not used in that photo
I’ve just seen the more recent comment listing off some 4MB SRAM carts that use two 2MB ROMs instead of a single 4MB ROM and I’m absolutely thrilled. This has been driving me crazy for ages!
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.
I have an original one with 2 visibly leaking capacitors, no power at all, screen will flicker for a second, no sound, and had been playing in negative.
Hi Sam, what console are you talking about? Send me an email and I might be able to repair it.
I was able to make a copy of this with a functioning save, if anyone is still interested. The trick is using the correct donor. Here are the donors that I believe will work:
Phantasy Star IV: The End of the Millenium
World Series Baseball ‘95
World Series Baseball ‘96
World Series Baseball ‘98
These are all 4MB capable carts with SRAM+Battery saves, using 2 2MB maskroms. I used World Series Baseball ’95 for mine. You would be a horrible person if you used Beyond Oasis or Phantasy Star IV as a donor. (but one could make both of these great games using this process….)
Remove both maskroms. Get a hold of the Sonic 3 Complete rom, byteswap it and split it into 512KB pieces. use your chip writer to write the first four pieces to a 27C160 chip, and the second four pieces to the second 27C160 chip. Label them so you don’t mix them up.
The fist chip should be soldered into the lower maskrom slot, the second chip should be soldered into the upper maskrom slot. If you mess this up it obviously will not work. While you’re at it you may want to replace the battery, who knows if its good or not.
If this is not clear enough I can go into more detail. I can provide pictures of finished carts and them functioning.
Good tips, thanks. I’ll give it a try with one of the baseball games one day 🙂
I saw this right after stumbling upon the realisation that some Super Nintendo games split their ROMs over two chips which got me all excited. This whole 4MB ROM + S/FRAM mapping problem was driving me insane. Previously, I had understood that in the original Sonic & Knuckles + Sonic 3 scenario, the Sonic & Knuckles cart permanently grounded the Sonic 3 RAM access pin in order to take control of mapping in and out the ROM and RAM (switching out the 2MB Sonic 3 ROM when it needs to map RAM for save data) which had me scratching my head about how I’d be able to make a single 4MB M27C322 EPROM work. Having found out that 2MB SNES games use two 1MB ROM chips, I then started searching for Mega Drive / Genesis games that had both RAM and two individual ROM chips… and here you are answering my prayers.
You absolute legend.
I basically just wanted to say thanks, but I’ve actually got one quick question: would it be logical to assume that other games that are also 3MB or above and also use RAM for save data, such as NFL Quarterback Club ’96, should also work for Sonic 3 Complete, regardless of whether they use battery-backed SRAM or the FeRAM model used by Sonic 3? I guess theoretically the size of the FeRAM could pose a problem but given that we’re only talking about 512B in the case of Sonic 3 I don’t imagine it’ll vary.
The carts I listed are the only 3MB+ USA carts that use SRAM + batteries that I am aware of. NFL Quarterback Club for example uses a rewritable EEPROM for both the ROM and the save data, and as far as I know nobody has figured out how to get those to work, so I omitted those games (Which is s shame, as there are a few that would be great donors). Sonic 3 is the only game I’m aware of that uses FRAM.
I’m glad that this information has been useful to you. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Hello Alex i have discovered this post about this repro and i decided to make one to myself. i have now the proper donor form world series baseball 96 and i got my eproms but i have some trouble arround burning the two chips. is it possible to talk through email, because i really wanted to make this but i dont know much about burning eproms for repros. thank you for the info!
I am willing to help you out but I’d rather not use email. I have created a discord that you will be able to contact me directly at:
Please post your questions there and I will respond to them when I have time.
I want to clarify that the programmer that I am using for this method is the TL866Plus, using an adapter to select the 512KB bank on the 27C160 chip, because the TL866 does not natively support this chip. It may only be necessary to split the byteswapped file in 2 pieces for programmers that support this chip. Thanks for members of the community to point this out to me.
Hi I was wondering if there is a program to split the two genesis roms? There are for nes and Snes but I don’t know of any for genesis otherwise I don’t know how to split them
I use the “split” file tool under ‘extras’ in HxD, a popular hex editor. You can do it using the command prompt in windows too, if you are comfortable with the command line.
Thank you so much! I’m gonna try soon and Ille let you know how it goes!
Welll I tried this and it didn’t work just got garbled screen with Sega logo and resets. Here is exactly what I did: downloaded sonic 3 complete rom 3,840 kb then byteswapped it then broke it up in hxd hex editor 2 2000 kib chunks then I had one with 2000kb and one with 1840kb I burned each using my gq4x and got these results. What did I do wrong?
Got it to work!! I noticed you said you split it into 4 512kb chunks onto 2 chips so I did 2048 x 2 and filled with ff and it worked! Thank you Alex for the help!!
Interested where you got this Neo Sports club from – it looks EXACTLY like my old one which I sold about 10 years back
When I lived in York!
Hi Jon. Yes I think it’s the same one, I got it from York 🙂
Small world lol. It’s still working great and I play it often.
Cool – just realised 2 years later you replied 🙂
Are you on the forums? I’m moomootown on ukvac / twitter
Hi. Do you offer installation of the board?
Yes. I can install the switch board for £15. Please send me an email and we can get it sorted.
I’d been looking for somebody to add an RGB SCART output to my Master System 2 and I came across Neil after some Googling. He suggested installing Voultar’s Mega Drive bypass amp in my SMS2 (not something that I’ve read of anyone else doing before and the amp hasn’t been advertised as being Master System compatible) and explained there’d be a turnaround time of maybe 2 months or so, which I was fine with. He did the work in a week at a very reasonable price and my Master System 2 – which I’ve owned since childhood – paired with my OSSC has never looked better. I wish I’d come across Neil’s services much earlier – especially as he’s also based in the UK – and I fully intend to contact him first with any future retro console work.
Thank You Neil for looking into this for me and sorting it out.
great mod and I recommend Neil for any job your after.
Another Great Job Pal.
Hi, I’m in trouble with another pc engine, white version… the cd don’t spin but motor yes… if I remove the plastic motor/lens cover and put the cd and the magnet in place… all ok the game load fine…. a good inspection show that the spindle plate is minus than half mm lower than the plastic border. I tried your method but the spindle is at the hightest position and no go over (even if I dont understand how the spindle can go hight with the flat screwdriver turn). I menaged to read the disc with the plastic cover in place putting a ring of cardboard between the cd and the spindle plate but isn’t a good solution. So my idea is that the magnetic ring have loose its power and no lift up the spindle plate as it should do… if you understand my bad english can you help me again with a good suggest?
Sorry to flog a resting post but…
I have this setup, with a capcom JVS I/O, latest multi BIOS, and working 0 Key, all games that are compatible with my I/O boot fine with the exception of any virtua fighter 4 games, i have checked all the CRC’s and they match with known good dumps, but they all boot to either a black screen and the test button doesn’t work like its crashed, or with vf4 EVO error 02 depending on what region the BIOS is set for, or the occasional error 33 no gateway, im at my wits end! any ideas what it might be thats causing it?
Sorry I cannot help. I only have a Naomi 1 setup not Naomi 2 so vf4 will not work for me.
The PC Engine DUO arrived today and it’s working perfectly
I’m so happy with this, you’ve been such a great help
I just wanted to say thanks for the fix, the speed, and all for a cheap price
Thanks a lot
what are the values of the capacitors and the resistors
In what? The whole board? Ask at the Neo-Geo forums.
it looks a little messy in there and looks like needs more heat syncs and cooling max performance
does this thing do cd32 games i know with ide cd audio was separate hopefully there some kind of mixer i mean nintendo is getting better hdmi with audio this thing was a head of time back then if this all messed up with half hz and half audio hopefully it looks better now system should be to max with a iso loader and floppy loader and everything mixed hdmi for audio but dont have hdcp so any display type
I’ve had my CDX since 2011 (with the official power supply) and I’m having huge problems, like where the games will not play audio, but you’ll hear the sound effects or sometimes the dialog will start skipping and then the screen turns black. I’m absolutely bad and paranoid at repairing consoles. I wish I could send you mine and repair it for me for a fair labor fee.
Hi. Send me an email and we can discuss a repair.
I also had low CD audio volume with occasional pops.
I removed IC504 (4053 audio multiplexer) to check the vias underneath and then reflowed the two 4558 OP amp ICs at IC503 and IC521. Suddenly, I had no CD audio at all.
Reading that IC503 and IC521 are heat-sensitive, I replaced them using the lowest heat setting I could get away with and still had no CD audio. I verified that pins 9, 10, and 11 of IC504 have continuity with pin 81 of the large NEC QFP chip on the bottom (near the CD ROM drive) but the trace on the top side looked corroded. I removed the solder mask from the corroded trace and tinned it which suddenly restored CD audio completely and at seemingly full volume.
Neil did a fantastic job replacing the caps on my Amiga 600 will be using again for other stuff the I have!!!!!
Propose tu toujours les reparation de multi mega ?
Jai la partie megadrive qui fonctionne excepté le son qui ne sors que par la sortie audio. Mais le lecteur cd ne se lance pas. J’ai changé la lentille sans plus de succès. La lentille a l’air de fonctionner mais le cd ne tourne jamais. Juste un mini à coup sur off.
Does the Mega-CD logo screen appear with no cartridge inserted?
This could be a BIOS problem although I have tried to fix units with similar problems and has no luck.
Sorry I don’t think I’ll be able to offer a repair for this unit until the service manuals become available online.
After trying to fix a dodgy controller port on my PC Engine myself and making even it worse! I called it a day and sent my console to Neil. It was an excellent experience. I was kept informed all through the process from receipt of console, diagnostics, repair and testing. It was a quick process for me and the communication was first rate. I’ve learnt my lesson – I’ll leave it to someone who knows what they are doing! Will be using 8bitPlus again for AV mods for other consoles I have. Thank You!
I recently sent Neil my Mega CD after it started showing graphical errors and crashing. I was kept up to date on the fault finding process and after being recapped and a further issue with some traces it was good as new. Highly recommended 🙂
Im very courious to see what you think about it. 🙂
I’m writing a review/article about it now. Just need time to take photos get it uploaded
These are great, i’ve had one for a while now.
There is also a new firmware on 3drenovation that changes the background colour if you dont like the blue!
I like the blue background. I’d really just like to see more eye-candy like the GDEMU menu, but functionality is more important.
I bought a famicom from japan with the intention of getting it modded. I contacted a bunch of people asking about it and out of the few that did reply many tried to dupe me as I have never sent something off to be modded before. I found 8bitplus and saw he was in the UK so that was good but he was great to talk to always on the ball with replies and fair pricing too. When the job was done I got in Progress photos and a video showing me my console working and all that he did to it. I asked for a discreet mod and discreet is what I got and I was SUPER impressed. The console was sent back to me in great time and I got it out of the box to find that the working console I sent came back working but SO MUCH better than before. I cannot recommend Neil enough and will almost certainly use his services again.
Neil did some work on my Neo Geo AES recently and i can’t fault his service. i had a sound issue so i sent the board to be re-capped which didn’t work but he then advised that it might be a chip at fault so he replaced some of the sound chips, even using one from his own board and eventually fixed the problem. he also did some other mods for me such as the RGB trace cut and installed a Unibios. very helpful, incredibly knowledgeable and his work is spot on…he even hand delivered my system as he lives fairly local to me!. will defo be using again if i need any repair work. thanks again 🙂
These systems do not have stereo output. If you desire stereo you can use a single RCA to dual RCA splitter and create two identical audio channels. The other option here is to use a TRRS jack
which will carry both channels and split out to 3 RCAs…. You can create a “Stereo like” mod to the system where instead of pulling the buffered combined audio you pull the separate audio from pins 1 and 2 of the CPU separately however I think this is stupid… youll get some sound effects and part of the music on one speaker and some on the other, not a normal blended spatially separate stereo. It sounds interesting but not good and can come off as weird depending on how the game splits up its audio tracks. I suggest using the combined audio and splitting the cable or running that combined audio to both L and R jacks if using separate RCA or TRRS jacks.
To bypass the 12v into 5v like you have done with the wire, does this ground pin 3 of the chip or does it push 5v into the chip, the reason I ask is that I have received a newer revision in where the chip and resistor is located somewhere else so if it’s gnd I can use any gnd point.
Just got out of a box in a cupboard the Game Gear I bought my boys from new way back when it first came out I believe. Got the TV tuner, rechargeable battery pack, nice case for it all to fit in and have a big selection of games. Upon putting 6 new AA batteries in and turning it on, the screen lit up for a second and then immediately switched off. Tried again but nothing the second time. Just plugged in battery pack to recharge and try again but I have read the capacitors tend to die on the old GG.
Do you think this is the problem? Would changing them fix the issue? If so, would you kindly let me know what you charge to do the repair, as not sure I would have the patience for all that soldering and de-soldering. Many thanks, Brian
Yes sure I can recap a Game Gear. It’s a common problem with the capacitors and affects them all eventually.
Send me an email through my contact page first and we can get it arranged.
Hi wanted a uni BIOS put in my neo geo AES,heard you are the man I’m after 😃 how much would it cost to install please ? Look forward to hearing g from you regards Alex
Hi. Please send be an email through my contact page first.
Hi, I’m going MAD with this Duo 🙁
I recap it, change the op and under side and change Cd laser… now cd load fine but audio start some minute after power on… I resolder the op amp and some caps but nothing change… can you suggest me where looking for fix this issue? Maybe a specific caps or a op amp trouble? Many thanks again
Hi mate. I’d love on to checking ground quality and checking if any vias (the little from holes) are clogged or corroded stopping a ground signal passing through. Is there any fixable damage from cap leaks?
ok… finally fixed it… found another closed via that I not fix on the first inspection (two vias corroded in total) !!! many thanks again for your help!!!
Nice one 🙂 I sometimes shine a LED flash light through the board to check the via’s. of course that only helps if there isnt a chip in the way.
This was my NGCD.
Neil did a cracking job of installing the unibios for me and now ime really glad to have it back and able to swap regions without any unsightly switches.
There was some issues caused by heavy handed couriers but Neil fixed those issues in a quick and professional manner.
Highly reccomended 🙂
Hi, I’m working on two PC-Engine Duo-R with Super CD-Rom2…. both working but one with no audio and no load cd, and one with audio and no load cd.
After recap and good clean one is fully working but one have sound issue and no load cd. The audio trouble maybe the Op Amp or via corroded to be investigated but my main problem was about no cd load. I tested both board with both cd-rom drive. Both read cd with on drive and both no read cd with the other cd-rom drive. So I suspect that I need to change the cd-rom drive. So here my ask to you… I see on the net various hop-m3 product but some advert “Original Product , very hard to find in game market now, so if you have the Pc-Engine Super CD Rom 2 console you must buy one for back up .. can’t work on DUO,DUO-R and RX “, other that work with Hitachi product!!! Can you suggest me a way to understand what HOP-M3 to buy? Or are all the same? Best Regards from Italy. Emiliano
I’m sorry… are two PC Engine DUO with super cd-rom2
I got a HOP-M3 pickup laser from ebay a while ago and that worked fine.
you could try http://www.gamedoctorkh.com
Great little tutorial. It’d be nice if you could go into more detail about the “Finishing” stage, where you wired the av output to a stereo jack. If you’re using the red output for video, do you actually get stereo through the white output? Or would it be mono since you’re missing a 2nd audio channel?
Hi, for me it works perfect, thanks!
But I have a doubt , how is the best way to turn off the raspberry and naomi motherboard?
I just switch the power off. You can make changes to the raspberry pi to get a read only filesystem so powering off dosnt corrupt the ad card
HI! I have a gamegear just bought 2nd hand, that needs to be fixed sound-and screen wise. Power led is going on, some light comes from the screen (seen when you hold in an angle), but no other reaction with (working) game in.
please contact me, cheers from The Netherlands!
Hi. Sounds like a classic capacitor failure. Send me an email and we’ll arrange to fix it but I’m fully booked for work for now so it might take a long time. Neil.
Neil did a battery mod for my sega nomad can’t fault his service and will definitely be using his services again in the future
Hi, I’m looking for an info abot the 4558 op-amp on this board… do you can tell me the right voltage to pin 4 and pin 8? On my Duo Cd2 some via are corroded and havo no connection to this pin… now i fix the pin 8 to take 8V but pin 4 stay to GND… this is OK or still wrong?
Many thanks I hope con reply to this and help
Hi. The voltage on pin 8 is about right. I get around 7.9/7.9v.
Pin 4 is ground yes.
all other pins should have a low voltage.
Here’s the pinout diagram:
I’d change the OP Amps out if you suspect any problems. Especially the 2 on the under side of the board.
Well, so connection is ok…
Yes, I will change one or more because have sound with “crack and sparckle” over it!!!
Many many thanks and best regards from Italy
Looking great, and a very informative post! Got myself an old Turbo Duo we imported from the USA back in the 90’s (I live in Sweden) that I’m gonna have modded with RGB one of these days. That is, if it will ever live again, hopefully i just need to recap it.
Keep up the good work!
Hi. Feel free to get in contact with me for a recap and rgb mod. I regularly do this and have a quick turn around for those jobs. Neil
Finally I get video signal after changing the scart but the board is broken; video RAM error is shown.
I will buy other one hoping better luck…
Regards and thank you for your help!
Please, can you help me in order to use it with my MVS, I am trying but nothing works, no image and no sound… can you tell me the status of the switches please?
Regards and thank you,
Hi. What MVS do you have? 1 slot Jamma board or the larger multiple slot type.
Does the MVS work at all?
It is a MVS1FT with one slot and I hope it works.
Regards and thank you!
Ok I think that’s a Jamma board, not MVS harness layout. Most of the 1F boards are Jamma.
Basically it should work. None of the setting switches will stop it working as far as I know. Mostly they relate to sound or controls. Set the Audio to Mono, but again that wont stop the video working. Are there any signs of life? TV flicker when turning the board on? Might be a faulty board.
Finally the board is broken; after change the scart to by a RGB one I got image in the TV but it is an error in the video memory.
Thank you for your help!
Neil did a fantastic job recapping my turbo duo. He also did the region mod and rgb mod the picture quality has never looked so good. A pleasure to do business with and highly recommended
DONE! working save for me now!haha!
Excellent. Send me an email through the contact page and we can work out a way of showing your work here if possible
Hey tomas, can you explain how you do please? thanks in advance.
Did you read the page?
What do you want to know?
I’m assuming he was asking about getting it working with the save feature Thomas mentioned he was able to successfully achieve. I myself am curious on how you would get this working. Would love to make myself a fully functioning copy of both this and Sonic Classic Heroes with Team Chaotix. Any instructions on how to do this would be great!
This in interesting stuff. It’s no wonder that people with an interest in graphics flocked to the Amiga, given it was not only well supported at the time, but had reliable technology behind it, too. One thing I really like(d) about the Amiga, was that it opened its hardware up to expansion like no other computer. Apple was pretty much (and still is) closed to third parties, and while PCs continue to offer excellent expansion capabilities, I think Amiga was ahead of PCs back in the eighties and early nineties when it came to third-party hardware development.
Hi. I’d say that Apple did have a healthy third party hardware catalogue back when they ran 68xxx processors. Even up to the PPC days you could get CPU upgrades, but Amiga was the upgrade king of the times. Just buy a machine, then configure the hardware to your tasks.
Lets not forget that an average 030 Amiga can also run MacOS 6/7 better than a real Mac of the times! (with ShapeShifter installed)
hi did you ever make one whit working save? i have been trying but soon i wont have any hair left.
Hi. No I didn’t lol. Would love to find some instructions on what’s needed, so far all I found out was the save system is the same as Phantasy Star IV, and not sonic 3.
I might have to get a ready made repro and reverse engineer that. If you get anywhere I’d love to know and I’d be happy to give you a place to show off your work if you get anywhere.
hi im working on it right now trying to figure it out 🙂 if you shoot me an email i will reply as soon as i have got it working.
I’m trying to research this myself now but info is extremely scarce and contradictory; some places claim the original Sonic 3 cartridge used SRAM, others say it actually uses FRAM which is starting to fail these days and is trickier to replace than an SRAM battery, and then I hear that Sonic 3 Complete doesn’t even use the same system as Sonic 3 to save so that wouldn’t work either. I was intending to simply convert a working Sonic 3 cartridge (all chips intact) to Sonic 3 Complete with my own customised ROM flashed on M27C322 EPROM but if what you’re saying is true and it doesn’t use the Sonic 3 system (presumably meaning no FRAM save) then this almost certainly won’t work and I’d need to understand more about precisely how Phantasy Star IV does it. The thing is, I can’t find any other mention of that link between Sonic 3 Complete and Phantasy Star IV – do you remember where you found this out? And did you ever get a save-capable Sonic 3 Complete cart in the end?
Sonic 3 Complete save system is a nightmare. It does not use the same save system as sonic 3, its more like Phantasy Star 4. Don’t kill a copy of that game just to make a S3C reproduction cart lol. I’ve never had time to investigate it full myself, but I have been contacted by people who say they have got it working, but never want to follow up on how. I may take another look one day but its not top of my list now.
Hi there, I stumbled across this site looking for info on a CD32 problem I have with my own console. I am not electronics savvy at all, so I would not attempt any technical repair myself, but would attempt to look inside it maybe if I knew what I was looking for. My console was bought used many years ago from Cash Generator, it worked fine, but at some point developed a fault where the joypad will not let me press left at all. It never used to do this at first and is really annoying. I even bought a brand new original replacement CD32 joypad, thinking the one I already had was at fault, but still the same problem remained even with the brand new pad. I tried cleaning the joypad ports with WD40 not too long ago, thinking it might just be clogged up with something, but still the fault was there later :/
So, by my reckoning, this fault must be something and nothing, since the console powers up fine, with no other issues, nice enough screen even through just RF, and no sound issues, I just can’t play any damn games properly although they will load up.
Is this fault familiar to you, or anyone else out there? I really would like to get it sorted and have a properly working console again.
James, Sorry just saw this post, you should try some Contact Cleaner in the slots of the Joypad and on the connector as well. You should be able to easily open the case and spray on the connector in there. I just
fixed my Three button Amiga mouse by doing just that, so give it a go.
I’m looking for a metal shielding as it is removed from my CD32. Anyone have a spare one to sell? (to Finland), I would be interested.
alright mate i don’t suppose you know where i can get the rom set for scud or scud plus? i have a twin unit one running plus and one just scud
Hi. I’m not sure where it purchase them, but if the data can fit on a compatible eprom chip you might be able to copy your plus rom chips and burn another set for your other cabinet.
Can this work with an AtGames Genesis?
No reason why it shouldn’t
Can you build me one???
I will pay you
Is supergun for sale
And is it compatible with pandora box cabinet 99 games in 1??
Is supergun for sale??
And Is it compatible with Pandora box 99 games in 1???
Hi. I made that supergun over 10 years ago. Not sure where it is.. Sorry not for sale.
I bet it would work fine with the Pandora.
Can you build me one please I will pay you
I live in michigan USA
No sorry. That’s a huge job and I don’t have the time to spend on a job like that along with all the other console repair work I’m doing.
I’d recommend a ready made supergun from eBay.
I have got a pic engine duo with sound issues,the sound is very very low I change de capacitors and still the same.
My question is the amps for ic503 and ic 506 are the same Texas Instruments?
Thanks for all
Those are ADPCM sound effects (digitized audio). IC503 and the nearby DIP chip handle that so make sure all the connections are good and check ground, voltage, etc. Should be about 7.3-7.8v on pin 8 of IC503.
I’ve just had my PC Engine Super CD-Rom2 Re-capped and RGB modded by Neil. What an excellent job hes done! The picture quality is now excellent, i’m hearing music and speech in games that i’m sure wasn’t there prior to the fix and games seem to load faster. I mentioned to Neil that the system struggled to read games on CD-R and he adjusted the tracking and focus of laser as it was a little off and now everything plays perfectly. Excellent comms, super quick turn around and very reasonably priced, i cant recommend him enough. I’ll be sending all my future console mods,faults and restoration work to Neil.
Well, I got a 512MB NetDimm with zero key pic off eBay all the way from Portugal, plugged it in and… nothing. No sound or video. Supposedly it’s 100% ready to go and works properly. They used the picture you have at the top of the page for the listing and it really does look clean and is in great condition. I have a bios chip 21576H installed in the Naomi 1 machine. I even hooked it up to a monitor but the monitor receives no signal. The MvC2 machine I have uses a 15k monitor so I thought it was that until I plugged it into a PC monitor. Bummer. At least I can return it. Any ideas? I was so hoping this would be an easy install.
Hi Mate, yeah that does not sound right. So your Naomi works fine with the MvC2 game cartridge? if so don’t change any DIP settings on the Naomi. the NetDimm should just plug in and display the Network screen when powered on.
Where are you based? would you like to send the Dimm to me for testing? Send me an email through the contact page above and we can talk more. Neil
I had a Sega CDX that was no longer able to play Sega CD games, and Neil was able to successfully troubleshoot and replace the faulty laser / motor. It works perfectly now! Would recommend to anyone.
I had Neil mod my white sega saturn with switchless 50/60hz, region free bios, new memory module, CDR phantom board and pico psu.
I received the saturn in the same condition as i had sent it. It works perfectly, plays my originals, CDRs and VCDs with no problems. I can’t wait to have a proper game on it.
I recommend anyone who is interested in having their console modded to contact Neil. His work is high quality and professional, he keeps you informed on progress and even emails you high quality photos of the work he has done.
I have already decided on letting Neil handle my next retro project.
I got my Neo Geo AES upgraded with the latest bios, my power connector fixed and a nice red LED fitted to the reset button. All for a very reasonable price. Everything came back well packaged within a week and I couldn’t be happier. I would definitely recommend 8bitplus and would be happy to use them again. Thank you.
Well done. Looks fantastic.
congratulations for your work – the cab looks amazing!!
just a little questions – do the original sega dreamcast light gun work on the crt monitor? i’m intrestet to do convert my naomi cab to a dreamcast cab too and play on it the house of the dead 2. 🙂
thanks and best regards, phil
I think they should work on a CRT VGA monitor just fine.
Bloody brilliant! The difference in the picture is night and day! When the console is capable of such a great imagine why did Nintendo give us such crap to start with, it baffles me!?
Awesome! Thank you so much for your super quick response.
I was hoping using the LAN to flash would be fine because I’d eventually like to create a script from my Hyperspin cabinet that flashes the MvC2 machine when a certain game is selected. In other words, one would select a game from the Naomi HS wheel and it would then flash the MvC2 machine sitting next to it for play.
Ok yes that’ll work fine. You might want to have a look at my raspberry pi I use to flash the dimm. It has all the games on an an SD card.
I do have one more dumb question. Does the net dimm support only Naomi games or can it do Sega Triforce and Atomiswave games too. The reason I ask is because the BIN files for the different systems are often found with each other and Atomiswave games say Naomi Conversions. Thanks, again.
Yes, you can play the Darksoft converted Atomiswave games on the Net Dimm with a Naomi or Naomi2 motherboard. Triforce games will only work on the Triforce board.
Thanks for posting this tutorial. I’m looking to eventually get a Naomi NetDimm off eBay but want to be sure I am doing the right thing. I have a Marvel vs Capcom 2 machine. About 2 years ago I go a bios chip 21576H and installed it into my Naomi 1. I had a few questions:
1. Is the standard power supply in a MvC2 with a 29″ monitor enough for the NetDimm to run properly or should it be upgraded? I ask this because I saw a video saying it should be upgraded if using the CF mod. I’d rather just use the netboot method.
2. Can the NetDimm be flashed over a LAN connection from a PC on the network or can it only be done with a crossover cable connected directly to a PC?
3. If a router is used, does it matter what the IP address that the NetDimm is given. I see people use 192.168.1.2 or something similar but does it matter what subnet or IP the Naomi is on?
4. if using a LAN is OK, should only a wired network be used?
5. I understand that a wireless can drop the signal so if it did, would this brick the NetDimm or is it recoverable (or any bad flash for that matter)?
Thanks for your response. I look forward to hearing from you.
1. The standard psu will be fine. Mine is the original and worked perfectly for years.
2. Yes the dimm can connect to a router with normal cat5 cables. Crossover needed if direct to pc/laptop.
3.You can give the netdimm any ip address in your current range. Just pick an ip that nothing else is using.
4. I guess you meant wireless?? That’s fine too. You can go from wireless laptop or over access points if needed. You can also connect the Naomi to a wireless bridge if needed.
5. If the signal dropped when sending a file nothing bad will happen. The file transfer will just fail, then you send again. You cannot brick the dimm that way. The RAM is just pc ram and not flash ram.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Nice update, awesome project.
Where did you find the Micronik Infinitive 1200 Tower?
Got it from Amibay
I sent Neil a faulty Sega CDX to repair the AV port. A Highly recommended repair service and a fast turnaround. Most appreciated, thanks:)
Wow! what a collection. You seem to have almost everything. Love the Japanese Saturns. Steve.
How come I can’t get any sound with the Hyper NEO board shown at the top I have another style board that works but when I stick the 4 pin connector in the other board you show it looks like there are no wires going to it hence no sound is there another wire harness connector next to the volume slider control I need to hook into?
The DX link to the screen that worked for you now has a different model board. The current pictures on the item page are that of the board I received. There are four solder terminal/holes marked 3V3, GND, TX and RX. Can these be utilized instead of cable connection? Will I need to convert the 5V out of the Nomad to 3.3V to use this? Thanks for your input.
Hi. I haven’t ordered any of there screen for some time. If they have changed the model then you can try with caution. Might work, Sorry I just cannot answer that any better for now.
Anyone ever run into their battery not charging fully? I think mine has that issue, either the charger or maybe the batteries are no good. It charges for about 1 hour and the green light comes on. I get only 1 hour of play time out of that charge, should I get a new charger? I was thinking of getting new batteries also.
This is/was my CDZ and when I got it back its better than I could ever imagined. Neil your communication, price and turn around was amazing and Im so appreciative of your work! Thank you so much! MJ
Thanks for the review.
I hadn’t really considered a Supergun before; I’ve run my MVS and Naomi collection through the same 15k monitor in my cab, but I guess this would allow me to use the Naomi’s high res mode.
I might just pick one up. They also do an adapter for Megadrive pads which should be useful.
Maybe I’ll even eventually sort some steering wheel solution for those Naomi driving games I’ve never played. And that one flight sim. Might be tricky though. :p
Hi I have a white PC Engine Duo R which has stopped coming on just inquiring if you would be able to help. I haven’t played it for ages then got it out to play & it wouldn’t come on. I have read that it most prob needs a re capping or somethibg. Thanks
Hi Dave. No problem. It will be the capacitors if they haven’t been changed yet.
Send me an email via the contact section and we’ll get it sorted asap 🙂
I used your information on this page for my YT video here: https://youtu.be/AZ5aytv9oIs
Though I find your “jumper” for the voltage regulator unecessary. Otherwise, great work.
Hi neal I still having problems with scud racer I have managed to get a rom read out on the screen and it has no fault showing on the cpu
And the scud race does come on intermittent changed the power supply and it appears all good t
The one thing I have noticed is the steering is not centring when I power the machine up and on the driver board error 22 is displaying on the driver board
Any ideas mate
The driver board controls force-feedback and wheel centering on boot, so if its not working the wheel may become misaligned. I had this problem too error 22 or 20. First I ordered a replacement CMOS chip for the driver board from Andy Geezer but I can no longer find the part on his site. This didn’t fix the fault for me anyway so I replaced the board with one from eBay. There are some on eBay now like item 352052095195. They can be expensive though, but should solve your problem. As far as I know the board cannot be fixed.
Just A quick update, My modded Nomad (thanks 8bitplus) continues to work a treat with the new screen, modded screen dimmer and re-chargeable battery mod in place.
Now if only the Atari Lynx II was so simple and reasonable price wise!!
replaces the caps like you the 1000uf and also few 100uf 6.2 however my picture is still blurry?…. any ideas pls
Picture from which output? have you tried the s-video port?
Hi guys I have a scud race that needs a good home for this collectable machine it has a driver board error,no errors on cpu all good it needs minor tlc to make mint condtion if any interest please contact
Sorry for the late question. can the eight pin 12V to 5v regulator chip just be removed altogether instead of soldering the bypass cable?
It can indeed, I’ve seen that done somewhere. You could even solder the 5v line to the output of the regulator. Lots of different ways to do this.
Wow, super quick response. So if the chip is removed, that is all that’s required? You’d think with a chip missing something would break/no longer work wouldn’t you 🙂
p.s. To date I’ve done all the above minus the bypass (as my soldering skills are not good enough, neither is my eye sight!) and yes, the screen is more off than on. With the power adaptor connected no problem whatsoever.
I haven’t tried removing the regulator myself. It might have been a different screen type to mine. Id just bypass it personally. I think you’ll get more screen time with the bypass. What battery are you using? my rechargeable make a huge difference
I’m using the standard Nomad attachable battery pack with Duracell Alkaline, I’ve not seen a rechargeable battery pack (here in the United Kingdom) for the Nomad (it was never sold over here!).
I could upgrade that with Li-ion cells very easily.
I’m in the UK. Send me an email if you re interested. firstname.lastname@example.org
You realize that the jumper wire you soldered in does not do anything right? Basically, you just wired the output voltage from the step-down converter to where it was already going on the board- the inductor.
In the 6-slot picture, what’s the 4th game down?
Umm…. I might have taken that photo about 9 years ago… But that might be Last Blade 1 or 2 🙂
You have some of the best games on the system there.
And 8 Man.
yes, last time I counted I had about 60 MVS games 🙂
Yeah, I’ve had an MVS since around 2000 (when they were still making games for it!).
First a 6 slot, but I was negligent and the battery melted, so replaced it with a (much cheaper) 4 slot.
There are still a few games I’d like to pick up, but prices for some games have gone up to silly money now. I think those nasty multicarts are the only way I’m going to play Twinkle Star Sprites now 🙁
Hi, thanks for your tuto.
I would like to mod a game gear. Do you think this screen is available for game gear ?
If it’s ok, can you help me to do it ? I have tested an other mod (McWill), he asked to take off some resistanc, do you think it’s the same think with this screen ?
Hi. This is not the same screen used by the McWill GameGear mod. If you get the McWill kit I’m happy to do the mod for you. Send me an email from the contact page. Regards 8bitplus
I have done the mod, but in fact, his mod is a little expensive and I am looking for another mod cheaper…
In a game gear, pin 42 of the game slot is for resolution… Do you think if I solder wire composite in the pin 42 I will have a good resolution ?
No. That pin is related to the GG TV tuner accessory is a mode switch. The GG has no Composite signal on board at all. You would either need to install a RGB screen, or a RGB to Composite converter.
Hi. I want to buy the Rasspberry netboot kit with sd card 32g with all games and ready to use. How mush is it and with shipping to Thailand by EMS mail.
Sorry, but I do not stock them for sale. They are easy to make if you already have the NetDimm. The Raspberry Pi and screen are easy to find.
just read your labour of love with scud racer.
Great tips for me as just picked one up last week on ebay.
I need to give mine a clean also!! The music is not working on mine but the sound effects are…any ideas?
Hope you kept your cab.
thanks for posting.
Sounds like the music board isn’t working. Its separate to the sound affects. Or perhaps its output is not connected to the amplifiers…
i’ve actually done well with the first lcd you tried. I remove the 12v-5v down converter completely with my hot heat gun’s smallest nozzle and bridge pins 1 and 2. I think the color and issues were from undervolting. I actually bought those screens a couple years back too.
I have the recommended screen going in one this weekend, i will remove it’s power converter as well and bridge the chips. less chance of fuss later. I don’t recommend anyone who doesn’t have a heat gun to try and remove though. these tiny boards are to easy to ruin.
I wish I could find an screen that takes analog RGB in cheap, lol. That mod may happen though.
Hey, looking to buy the screen to do this mod but don’t want to spend as much shipping the screen as the cost of the lcd. Are there any online stores in NA that sell these parts?
Very sorry but apart from eBay I don’t know where you’ll find them in America. Perhaps something like Aliexpress…. The best answer is any of the 3.5″ screens “might” work. You might have to just try and see.
Mr Major, free shipping sir. http://www.dx.com/p/2-ch-video-input-3-5-tft-lcd-display-monitor-module-w-cable-black-silvery-grey-ntsc-pal-201631#.V-7uBvArIUG
The screen you posted is sold out.
Can you please help me find another one?
Hi Karl. I just got a couple of these from ebay: 281945486708 and they worked fine on a recent Nomad mod.
I’m sorry but the Molex connector on the back is a stupid idea, ruining a good case.
The Amiga power connectors pins are thick enaught to stand that current anyways, you could just have taken the power from the female connector pins inside the case, I mean, you’re using a ATX PSU anyways, there was no need for a separate connector.
Ok good point. Nothing I can do about it now and the person I sold it to was happy with that solution. the case was not in “perfect” condition to start with or I wouldn’t have wanted to cut anything.
what case did you use?
the pictures are missing from the guide.
Hi. It was just a cheap one from eBay. I cut the top to fit the LCD.
The image difference is immense when comparing the original screen to the LCD replacement, a highly recommended mod for any nomad owner and relatively cheap, I would advise on spending a little more on your LCD to ensure that any sync / blur, frame rate issues are reduced.
I agree on the before and after difference, but spending more on a screen won’t make any difference in quality. The screens are composite and intended for car reverse cams and small projects
Great guide but the link is wrong to the LCD kit.
I bought 5x of those that you mentioned: https://www.adafruit.com/products/772
Received them and realized its the wrong model, those are for the Arduinos.
I needed these ones: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1115
Nice waste of money 🙁
I do apologize, Changing link.
I’m sure you can return the other ones if they are not used.
Hi, i used the same model of screen and this was my issue… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REwkctfpd50
what i’m doing wrong?
Same model as mine? Looks like it cannot sync to the Nomad correctly. As with all cheap electronics something could be wrong, or slightly different in each batch. Keep trying, I went through 4 before I found one that worked….
Hello. I would need the mod for 2 dreamcast controller . I have your same dashboard naomi universal .
You have the possibility of paying create a 2 player , but preserving the original connectors ?
thanks I await your info.
Hi. My controller mod is 2 players. And the original connection is still there too the Dreamcast.
Hello good day.
I have a damaged screen Nomad .
You could support me going to know that brand or model gives display to be used to replace the damaged one .
There is no brands or model, it’s all Chinese electronics
Dear Games Master,
Could you provide me some cheats to be able to complete monkey island?
In the voice of the late Patrick Moore.
“Ah having trouble with that one are we? Well then I might help you out..
When you get to the jail cell you’ll need to talk to the prisoner called Otis. When you click on him Guybrush tells you ” His breath is very bad “. You need to buy some mints from the store for him, then you receive a Carrot Cake.
That should help you on your way.
For those of you that DO NOT have the same LCD controller board. What you can do is cut off pin 4 of the DC to DC step down converter chip and bridge pin 1 and 2. This will completely disable the chip and feed straight 5V to the LCD panel.
This worked on the newer style board! Thanks!
Hi, I’m watching your pictures, I want to ask if your Laser Disc players can output RGB via SCART?
It sure can.
Hi there, could you install.back the originan screen later if you wanted to?
No. Removing the original screen connection make it impossible to reinstall. But luckily I have 2 Sega Nomad’s 🙂
Hi, I would like to do the same mod, but I am wondering how to connect the power connector socket? There are 3 pins and from the photos, I notice you’ve connected the negative to the larger one on top, how about the positive? Thanks.
I guess you have 3 pins on the underside of the power socket? You should use a multi-meter to find out which pins are positive and negative when connected to the 12v charger power supply.
I see. Thank you very much.
How did you open the charger without damaging it? Or should I say, How did you open the charger?
Hi. I just opened it along the edge with a screwdriver
stupid comparison “comp vs rgb” — the whole force N64 (the essence) at S-Video…
Not sure I follow that…. but its not stupid to compare Comp to RGB. the whole point is to compare the quality difference after the mod.
Both of those electrolytic capacitors were installed the wrong way around at the factory on a particular revision board. Probably why they were bulging. You might want to open it and check again if you installed them the correct way around. The negative side of the capacitors footprint on the PCB will be common with the supply negative.
Hi. I did mention that in the article. They are the correct way round. Known problem.
I have seen that screen in game doenst work full. For ex, sonic game had blue trce in each side of screen. Why that appear? Have any way to full screen
The genesis/MD does not output exactly 480 lines. the rest of the area is called “overscan”.
Find yourself a screen that has digital zoom or overscan cropping. Good luck.
I wonder if instead of the controllers PCBs can you use the PCBs from Agetec Dreamcast Arcade Sticks?
Yes, you could.
Only thing is that the arcade sticks for the DC are too good to waste 🙂
Hello, I also try to revive my old Amiga CD32. When I start it the power LED lights up but there is no reaction from the console. No noise at the CD reader and when I hook it on a TV it’s just a blank screen with no sound.
If I remember correctly, I might have by accident touched the Player1 input port with some metal while the console was running. Did it short circuit or something?
It is possible. Pin5 is 5v…
Try removing the CD-Rom drive and testing the voltages at PSU. If it needs repairing perhaps someone on Amibay could fix it.
I have CD32 for year or two by now. Last few months often when I turn it on I was getting only black screen but if I’d open cd tray, green LED would light little brighter and trademark animation screen would appear and I could use it normally. In last week or so that stopped helping. So I disassembled it completely, cleaned and assembled it again but without shielding. There was trademark screen right away but if I would insert cd(I have burned ones only)cd would start spinning but none could be loaded. I put back that “magical” shielding cause I’m really wondering what it has to do with cd reading(maybe drive actually is supposed to lean on it on that triangular bent part that is sticking and get some contact???) and cd started loading every burned cd and playing cdxls without problem.
The image quality with the RGB is fantastic, the biggest improvements can be seen when using the N64 on a large LCD TV.
Everything looks better. Even when using a CRT.
Considering picking up a Naomi cab but I want to run jamma games on it. Is it an easy process to convert it.
Not too hard I think.
You need a RGB to VGA converter to upsync the video, and a audio to line converter too.
I bought the same LCD as the one that worked for you, but am only getting a blank white screen when turned on. Wondering If they changed something on the board and it doesn’t like the signal or if I got a bad one.
It’s always possible it changed at some point.
Have you checked the nomad video out signal with anything else? when I was testing I used a AV out cable to a CRT TV. I was going mad to find a LCD that would sync.
Another idea. did you test the LCD screen on anything else? plug it into anything else with a composite output. I tried all the 3.5″ screens out on a PS1 and Neo-Geo.
I boght five screens and two come bad. One with ribon cable broken and another blank.
At that price I would expect problems in some…….
I change the speakers too, now the sound is more higth and crisp. I try do a sms mode and region region mode( PAL/JAP) but i fail…
Thanks for help me with evrything and if you did more modded on your nomad please share with us.
Thanks for help me but i alredy done it. My last question…did you found any way to recharge the bateries more faster? Here they toke a lote of time to complet recharge aprox. 5 hours.
5 Hours sounds about right.
I wouldn’t risk charging at a higher Amp rating. I don’t want to hear that you’ve burnt your house down lol
I bought two of the screens that claimed worked and they both did but flashed. So did your 12V bridge and it killed both of them. Power was still going around the board but nothing would display on either screen anymore.
The screen I found that worked was this one:
not any of the others I tested.
What voltage was connected after you did the DC bypass? because if you still had it linked to the 12v that’s how you killed it.
Sorry i want say hole note holder.
Power pack wiring is very simple.
Pos+ and Neg- from the charging point go to the Pos+ and Neg- terminals of the battery cells AND to the connection pins of the pack. I’ll do a diagram and upload.
What you used to make a holder on battery pack?
Have any problem if i take off the power socket from recharger battery? I can unsolder the points and take it off but i’m affraid. Also i need know how you conect the red and black wires in power socket.
Could you take more pictures from inside nomad battery pack already modded? Its very hard to see how you soldering the points. Also i don’t understand how you conect the cable that comes out from nomad battery power jack thats you do and goes to chager. I open the charger but i cant see what i need do. Pela se take more pictures for help me.
Thanks in advance.
Why you show 4 arrows, two from 5v and two from the ground? I need make a bridge betwen red arrows and other betwen black arrows?
Just to show they can both be used. your choice.
Hi, nice modding – it’s amazing what you’ve been able to cram in! As a beginner I’m about to attempt something much more modest. The Indivision doesn’t allow the installation of a HD cradle – am I right in assuming that you have your HD to the left of the Indivision and is shown in the pictures above covered by the IDE ribbon cable? I might investigate fixing a HD to the underside of the keyboard with Velcro pads
Hi Simon. You are correct. With the Indivision AGA, the HDD needed to be relocated.
In the first version the HDD was located in the top left corner.
In the second version it was located under the slot loading CD drive.
Just finished mine! Looks amazing :)! Great tutorial, thanks.
Just finished mine! Looks great 🙂
I just wanted to say thank you for the info you provided. I just finished this mod on my nomad and it turned out perfect!
I just bought the same lcd that worked for you. The first one that I got was the same one as the second one that didn’t work for you. I had a question regarding the wiring, I see that you removed the white wire. Is this not needed? Also what voltage battery are you using? I’m modifying my battery pack with a 7.4 volt battery, would that be alright? Thank you for any help you can provide.
I just bought the lcd that worked for you. The first one I got was the same as the second one that didn’t work for you. I had one question regarding the wiring, I see that you removed the white wire. Is this not needed? Also what voltage battery are you using? I’m modding my battery pack with a 7.4 volt battery pack, would that be alright? Thank you for any help you can provide.
Hi. The white wire is not needed so I removed. Its a 7.4v battery in my mod. That’s the correct voltage to use.
Please note. the connections that I used to power the screen are only 5v. To make the LCD work you’ll need to bypass the DC converter chip on the LCD driver board. You can see the little white wire I used to do this.
Just what I needed to know. Sorry I posted the same question twice, didn’t realize the first 1 went through. Thank you for your help.
Great joob man. I tryed find a new screen for my nomad for several years but insucefull, now i bought that one you sugest on dealextreme. My question about battery is: i have the battery pack that use 6 AA bat but i don’t understood if you use this battery pak or the rechargeable battery pack original for nomad. Could you answer me?
Hi. Yes I did use the AA battery pack for my mod because it was the only one I had. The rechargeable pack is easier to mod as you don’t need to de-case the new Li-ion battery.
How you make a power connector socket? I’m already bought the screen that you recomend and battery from dealextreme. Just need wait arrived. Thanks for help me. What you think about this screen?
I didn’t make the power socket. It was left over from something else, think it might have been a Megadrive power socket.
That screen is no good. Its RGB only.
I don’t understand about how I can make a power soket. So thanks for everything.
Unsolder a power socket from another device.
How well would something like this work for a battery mod? https://smile.amazon.com/EBL-Lithium-Battery-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B014867612/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476327605&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3.7v+lithium+ion+battery&psc=1
They 3000mah each lithium ion 3.7 volt each for a grand total of 7.4 volt when using two. I have never used these but The voltage matches 3.7*2=7.4 so IF they fit they could in theory give double this mods life.Ny one know how well this would work?
Hi Brian. You could give it a try. I’m not sure that the capacity scales with the voltage… but let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the response .I’m not comfortable trying a battery mod at all yet. The main reason I asked about these batteries is the inside of the pack in your mod appears to have 2 power cells connected to each other I figured odds are they are even with one an other thus7.4v/2=3.7v witch is why i checked for 3.z volt batteries.
It would be odd to me if one of the 2 batteries/cells was of a higher capacity or voltage than the other one.
Do you have any suggested alternatives that do NOT involve prying or cutting into cases containing batteries? That is why I looked for 3.7v batteries loose to help avoid potential screw ups on my part. The fact the available separate batteries have a higher MAH was just icing on the cake IF it would work.
They might actually work.
Working out how to charge conveniently might be a bit tricky, but I don’t see any reason why not.
If you don’t want to crack open the camcorder battery then try a smaller one then I used. Mine was the 2900mah pack, but the 2500 is smaller and does not need de-casing.
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17415 – for example.
Is this the screen you used?
I bought two of these and neither worked…
And one of these, it didn’t work either.
I know I did everything right on my end, but I read some forums and a lot of people said that they have the same issue as me… so trying a new one. Please help! And great tutorial btw 🙂
Haha just noticed that you said the exact same thing. Getting the 3rd one you said that worked 🙂
Looks like you went through the same process as me. Third time lucky.
That’s the one, hope that works for you. Don’t forget to bypass the DC converter and link to 5v.
Hope it works! Thanks 🙂
Hi, can this mod me done on a Game Gear too?
In a way yes. But the GG dons’t have any composite output from the video systems. There is a mod pcb that can provide composite, then a new screen can be added. The next problem is that the GG runs in a very low resolution, so the picture is a small square in the middle of the screen (unless you can find one with a zoom function). Not worth it I think.
The DVD drive and the LAN card dont look to be period correct for this Amiga, how do you feel about modding classic computers with parts that weren’t available when they were still being used in Anger? Nice 1200 btw
The LAN Card is not a mod, just an accessory.
As for the CD/DVD, it was convenient to have it on-board rather than in a huge external drive unit like I had back in the day.
Follow me on Facebook: