Initial D Arcade Cabinet (part 3)

Time for some updates on the Sega Initial D cabinet I’ve been working on over this summer. Its now mostly complete, but I’ve just not had chance to document the progress.

Continuing from where I left off, the next objective was to install the seat. This stage consists of about 5 individual parts including the runners and frames. The runners were in very good condition and move freely. I had to refer to the service manual when reassembling the seat as its more complicated than it looks.

Next I installed the control panel platform. This large part needed some attention and removal of flaking paint from the legs (the only exposed area when assembled) and some paining. I didn’t see the need to have this part shotblasted and resprayed as only a small amount of it is visible when reassembled.

Once it was in place, I installed the metal dashboard frame. This part also is not visible when the plastic dashboard is installed over the top, but gives a good placement for the steering controls.

Now for a hard job. I had previously removed all the original components in the dash including the force feedback driver motor, gearing and steering wheel shaft. I’ll be using the Logitech G25 steering unit from my Sega Rally build. This time I want to locate the G25 far back in the cabinet and extend the steering shaft all the way out. I had found a forum link on the same subject here: https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=130821.0

My solution as almost the same as above forum post, but with some differences. I used a 25mm diameter aluminium tube with 3mm wall thickness for the steering shaft, and two bearing units screwed directly to the dashboard metal. The bearings hold the tube in exactly the right place and stops any unwanted wobble and allow it to spin freely. I found a 3D pint adapter for the G25 boss connection, and glued a UPVC tank connector flange. This flange was a prefect fit for the 25mm tube. The two section of the tank connector are bolted together so they can be easily removed if needed. The steering wheel was modified with another matching flange to connect and bolt onto the shaft.

All the steering wheel weight is held by the bearings, and when tested the force feedback still feels very good.

The original seat backing plastic was red for Outrun 2. I decided to spray the plastic white myself. It was a fairly easy job, but took a couple of days to complete. I cleaned the plastic to remove any stains from the original decals, then lightly sanded the surface to make better paint adhesion. I then did a couple of coats in plastic primer and wet&dry sanded between each coat. Then I applied the main paint layers, again sanding each time and finished with a couple of layers of clear coat. The final result is very smooth to the touch.

From this point things went quite quickly and I was able to reassemble the upper sections of the cabinet. Sides panels reinstalled along with speakers. I placed the subwoofer under the seat. The top and rear sections were also reassembled but not pictured here. I plan to install the sound amplifier in the side mounted coin tower for easy access to the volume control.

Now I have an assembled cabinet ready for decals. I’ll also cover in more details how the original arcade pedals are wired to work with the Logitech G25.